Inside the World of Luxury Resale

An Interview with Antonia, CEO and Refounder of Sign of the Times

Luxury resale has become one of the fastest growing segments in modern fashion. To understand why, and how Sign of the Times helping shape this movement, Antonia, CEO and Refounder of Sign of the Times, shares her experience of rebuilding a heritage resale business for a new generation of luxury clients.

With more than 50 years of history and a global community of buyers and sellers, Sign of the Times is now a trusted destination for authenticated preloved designer fashion.

Re-founding a heritage resale brand

Antonia acquired Sign of the Times in 2019. The business already had a strong reputation and five decades of trading, but it needed to be modernised and scaled.

She saw a fragmented market and a clear opportunity to bring structure, trust and professionalism to luxury resale. The goal was to elevate the category and build a global resale brand.

Today, Sign of the Times operates three physical locations, employs 35 specialists, ships to 40 countries and has already given more than 350,000 luxury items a second life.

Why luxury resale is booming

Several powerful trends are driving the rise of luxury resale.

The influence of Gen Z

Gen Z has made second hand shopping aspirational. For many of them, resale is the first choice, not an alternative. This mindset is now influencing older generations who see both the financial and environmental benefits.

The rising price of new luxury

The price of new luxury has risen sharply. A Chanel medium flap bag that cost £5,400 in 2020 is now around £8,850. With retail prices increasing at this pace, resale has become a way to access the same craftsmanship at a more attainable level.

The shift toward circular consumption

Luxury resale is growing around five times faster than mainstream retail. In the UK, one in four fashion purchases is now second hand. In the US, it is closer to one in three.

How luxury resale differs from second hand shopping

Luxury resale is not the same as casual second hand buying. It is curated, authenticated and professionally managed.

At Sign of the Times, this means:

• Rigorous authentication of every item

• Professional pricing backed by deep market knowledge

• Expert styling and curation

• A trusted selling and buying experience

• A level of service that feels aligned with luxury retail

The company also offers a home collection concierge service. Many clients earn between £2,500 and £5,000 a year from their wardrobes, while the most active private sellers can earn £40,000 to £50,000 a month.

Curating the world’s most beautiful wardrobes

Desirability is the starting point for every item accepted at Sign of the Times. The team looks at:

1. Current demand in the resale market

2. Condition and quality

3. Realistic resale price

4. Timelessness and craftsmanship

Supply scarcity is also important. Hermès and Chanel classics, for example, remain consistently in demand because the brands closely control their distribution.

Lessons from scaling a luxury resale business

Building one of the leading managed luxury resale marketplaces in the UK has brought some clear lessons.

People and processes

People and processes sit at the heart of the business. Luxury resale is operationally complex, so strong systems are essential. Technology supports these processes but does not replace expertise.

The leadership team has around 85 years of combined luxury retail and resale experience, which helps build trust and loyalty with clients.

Resilience

Another key lesson is the importance of resilience. Growth in a complex sector requires persistence and a willingness to keep going when conditions are difficult.

How circular fashion changes the way we value clothes

Circular fashion encourages people to see clothing as both a source of joy and a real asset.

Many clients now think about what an item will be worth in the future, not only what it costs today.

• Around 49% of shoppers consider resale value before buying new

• Extending the life of a garment by just two years can reduce its environmental footprint by almost 75%

• Well made, timeless pieces hold their value far better than trend led items

As a result, buying becomes more intentional. Clients start to ask whether a piece will last, whether it will still feel relevant, and what it might be worth if they decide to sell it later.

Practical tips for starting a resale journey

For anyone looking to begin with luxury resale, a few simple steps help.

1. Audit your wardrobe
   Most clients discover more than £3,000 worth of unworn or underused luxury pieces once they start looking properly.

2. Choose classics
   Classic shapes in neutral tones are easier to restyle and hold their value more consistently than trend driven pieces.

3. Avoid customisation
   Heavy personalisation, such as initials or bespoke alterations, usually narrows the resale market.

4. Check resale prices before buying new
   More shoppers now research second hand prices in the same way they would check the future value of a car. This helps reveal the true cost of ownership over time.

Sustainability and accessibility in luxury

Luxury resale allows more people to access high quality craftsmanship without requiring new production.

• Each item resold helps reduce demand for new materials and energy

• Clients can enjoy the experience of luxury with a lower environmental impact

• Resale supports a more thoughtful and less wasteful way of consuming fashion

It is a way to unite pleasure, responsibility and value in a single purchase decision.

The emotional side of luxury

Luxury is not only about status or investment. It is also about emotion, memory and self expression.

Pieces often mark specific moments in life, such as a first big promotion, a celebration or a personal milestone. For Antonia, items like her first Max Mara coat or first Gucci suit hold stories that stay with her, regardless of their resale value.

Resale allows those stories to continue. A piece can move from one wardrobe to another and start a new chapter with someone else, while still retaining its history.

The future of luxury resale

Luxury resale is expected to become even more integrated into the wider fashion ecosystem.

Brands are already experimenting with buy back schemes and in house resale platforms. Technology and AI will play a larger role in authentication and pricing, bringing even more transparency to the market.

The secondary market is forecast to exceed £300 billion globally by 2030. For clients, this means more choice, better information and a stronger link between what they buy and what it is worth in the future.

Starting your own luxury resale story

Luxury resale gives clients the freedom to buy pieces they love, knowing they can later resell them to fund something new. It connects sustainability, value and style in a way that feels modern and responsible.

Sign of the Times supports this journey by offering:

• Authenticated preloved designer fashion

• Expert curation and pricing

• A trusted concierge home collection service

• Access to a global audience of buyers and collectors

For many clients, that journey begins with a simple wardrobe audit and a single sale. From there, luxury resale becomes part of how they shop, dress and express themselves.